Likker – Page 8 – Thirsty South

January 15, 2014

Evan Williams Single Barrel Bourbon Memories

I was living in Manhattan, but didn’t know a thing about Manhattans. This was back in the late nineties, when I was in my late twenties. My drink of choice tended towards inexpensive wines that had been given a “best value” stamp of approval by whatever wine magazine was doing that type of thing back then. Or early craft beers like Sam Adams or Pete’s Wicked Ale (remember that???). The closest to a classic cocktail I got was a few rounds of caipirinhas at the all-you-can-eat Brazilian rodizio down on West Broadway, strong and sugary mint alcohol. Actually, I did once try another classic-ish cocktail – I ordered a sloe gin fizz as my mandatory drink at a dark jazz bar down in the Village. It seemed like an appropriately artsy thing to do, but it looked and tasted like a Shirley Temple. I never ordered a sloe gin fizz again.

My liquor cabinet at the time consisted of a bottle of Absolut. That’s it. But then I read a little blurb extolling the virtues of Evan Williams Single Barrel bourbon. I can’t recall where I read it, maybe the Times, maybe a magazine, definitely not on the internet which was still subject to the confoundingly glacial pace of dial-up connections. The key thing that drew me to the Evan Williams was that the article said it was an amazing bargain – probably $17 or so at the time. Ahh, value. Important to me now, even more important to my younger self. Actually, $17 felt like a big splurge at the time, next to the $10 1.5 liters of bourbon all around the Evan Williams Single Barrel at the liquor store. But I made the purchase, then pretty much relegated the bottle to a dark cabinet somewhere in my apartment.

I guess you could say my whiskey enthusiasm has come a long way (as has the whiskey industry, and whiskey pricing, and whiskey fanaticism). But Evan Williams Single Barrel was my first seriously considered bourbon purchase, and it’s held a soft spot in my heart ever since. It seems somewhat pedestrian today – a (roughly) ten year old single barrel bourbon – but Evan Williams Single Barrel was pretty rare when it came out with its first “vintage” in the mid 1990’s. Heaven Hill likely had the competition in mind when they launched it. Over at the rival George T. Stagg Distillery, master distiller Elmer T. Lee had paved the way for a top-notch single barrel bourbon a decade before with Blanton’s, then got his own brand later in the ’80’s. But Evan Williams came in at a much lower price point, with a unique vintage notion – all the barrels selected for a given release were put in barrel the same year many moons ago. The bottles got slopped with a barreled-on date and a bottled-on date to provide a bit of insight into what made each bottle unique. Even now, I wish putting the barreling and bottling dates on bottles were a more commonplace practice. And I’m thankful that Evan Williams keeps up the practice.

All along, Evan Williams Single Barrel has been about great bourbon value. The fact that each year’s release is a little bit different (and the fact that there’s variation from barrel to barrel within each year’s release) keeps up the intrigue over time. Some vintages get a reputation for excellence, some get a bum rap. Heaven Hill tries to find a slightly different personality for each release, but they all tend to share a core house flavor profile that I find to be about as bourbon-y as bourbon can be. Not too hot, not too thin, plenty of rich brown sugar, just enough spice.

The 2004 vintage of Evan Williams Single Barrel is hitting stores now. I just got my first bottle (thank you Heaven Hill). In fact, it’s labeled as coming from “barrel no. 1” of this release. I’m eager to give it a try, as I’m sure it will spark fond memories and help create some new ones as well. I’ll share some tasting notes in a few weeks once I’ve had a chance to sit with this one a bit and reminisce. Now where did I put my caipirinha?

January 5, 2014

Parker’s Promise of Hope

As I write this in the first few days of January 2014, a bitter cold is making headlines and turning much of the nation into a mean and nasty freezer state. The remnants of the storm they called Hercules are still being felt in the northeast. The thermometers read less than zero in a big swath of the midwest. And a lot of people are struggling to get through this cold snap. They’re worried about getting stuck in their home due to ice or snow, or even finding a warm place to stay the night. Frivolities like limited edition spirits in fancy bottles are decidedly not top of mind.

Me? I’m fortunate enough to say I’ve got it relatively easy. Atlanta is far from the worst of this weather, my heat is keeping things a comfy 72 degrees in my house, and I’ve got plenty of food, water, (bourbon), and friends and family to keep me healthy and happy for the time being. But I can’t help but think about those in need, and ways to help them out (here’s one way – and some helpful hints on dealing with the cold as well).

Which is all a roundabout way to introducing the latest Parker’s Heritage Collection bourbon release from Heaven Hill, dubbed Promise of Hope. This year’s release (out since October 2013) is distinguished by the fact that, for every bottle sold, $20 is being given to the ALS Association to help fund research and patient care for those effected by ALS (also known as Lou Gehrig’s Disease). Parker Beam himself, the master distiller who has worked with Heaven Hill since 1960, was diagnosed with ALS in 2013, so it’s a cause clearly very dear to the Heaven Hill family.

At $90 or so, this is not cheap bourbon, but knowing that it supports a cause like this takes the sting out of the price. Previous Parker’s Heritage Collection releases have run the gamut from an 11 year old cask strength small batch in 2007 (its first year), to a 27 ! year old release, to a cognac-finished release (by the way, Heaven Hill, please update your website, since the last edition shown is from two years ago!). This year’s Promise of Hope is fairly straightforward in its premise – a 10 year old single barrel bourbon that simply hits all the things Parker Beam looks for, from the age, to the location in the rickhouse where it matured, to the proof (96) it was bottled at. It’s basically the very best of the best of what the Evan Williams Single Barrel can be (at a higher proof). Which is to say that it’s very, very good. Prototypical Evan Williams/Elijah Craig excellence.

Amazingly, there’s still some of this stuff to be found if you get lucky. It hasn’t fallen prey to the mania around bourbons like Pappy or the Buffalo Trace Antique Collection. If you do see a bottle, I highly recommend picking it up. It’s a good cause, and a great bourbon. Tasting notes and review below.

Parker’s Heritage Collection, Promise of Hope, Single Barrel, 10 year old Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
96 Proof
Approx. $90 Retail
Tasting Dates: November 2013 – January 2014

I have to admit that I wasn’t fully appreciative of this bottle on the first few tastes back in November. It tasted, well, a bit pedestrian for the price. The fact that I knew it was basically Evan Williams Single Barrel (though hand selected especially for this release by Parker Beam) maybe played with my mind a bit, since EWSB runs for roughly a fourth of the price (a great bargain). But Promise of Hope is a bourbon that has grown on me over time, becoming a regular go-to when I’m in need of something to warm me from the cold or simply bring a slow smile to my face.

The nose here hits basically every note you expect it to hit… toasty oak, burnt caramel, cinnamon and vanilla, orange peel, a bit of crisp apple fruit, then a sharp mineral edge at the end. And, yes, the proof is just right for sipping neat. Plenty strong, tongue coating richness, but not at all too hot. Those same elements you get on the nose come out strongly on the palate, the fruit and grain a bit more pronounced, but the spicy cinnamon coming on stronger, too. Cloves and baking spice carry through into a finish that keeps going and going and going. Robust without being domineering, balanced and wholly integrated. It’s enough to keep you happy on a cold winter night, and it also puts you in the mind of thinking about the challenges that others are facing, and the fact that even a little thing like supporting a charity with a purchase (or a donation) can have an impact.

Thirsty South Rating: Excellent*

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* Thirsty South Rating Scale:

Wow – among the very best: knock-your-socks-off, profound, complex liquid gold!
Excellent – exceptional in quality and character, worth seeking out, highly recommended
Good Stuff – solid expression of its type/varietal, enjoyable and recommended
Fair – fairly standard or exhibiting obvious though minor flaws
Avoid – move away folks, nothing to see here, a trainwreck

Full Disclosure: Tasting sample provided by Heaven Hill. Donation made by Thirsty South to the ALS Promise of Hope Fund.

December 7, 2013

Decatur Package Store & Single Barrel Whiskey

I just visited Decatur Package Store for the first time today, and now I’m sad. It wasn’t the somewhat dingy exterior that led to these feelings, nor was it the mark my purchase made on my bank account. I’m sad because it took me so long to step foot in this whiskey wonderstore.

I first heard about Decatur Package Store years ago, from friends who said it was a good spot for wine, whiskey and cocktail geeks (beer geeks, too). For whatever reason, the visit I planned to make never happened. It’s most because Decatur is always a bit out of my way – the store is on Clairemont Avenue just south of North Decatur Road – plus the fact that I’ve found myself far too often at H&F Bottle Shop as my liquor store of choice. But today I finally had my definitive reason to hit Decatur Package Store, as I was going to interview proprietor Herb Chereck for a Creative Loafing feature (coming soon – I’ll add a link once it’s published).

Herb runs the place, and he runs it well. He has the kind of friendly, knowledgable demeanor that’s well-suited to the range of folks that might walk through the door – some looking for a cheap bottle of whatever’ll do the trick, some looking for a hard to find Italian bitter. He can talk you through any section of the store and make it a compelling journey, like a tour guide illuminating the intricate history and character of a city block by block.

The block I found most interesting, among many, was the American whiskey section. Decatur Package Store has gone heavy on single barrel selections – whiskeys Herb and team have chosen specifically from samples they’ve tasted from various distilleries. There was a young rye from Georgia’s own 13th Colony, an Elijah Craig, an Eagle Rare, a Ridgemont 1792, a Henry McKenna, and the one I couldn’t walk out the store without… a 12 year old Four Roses OESV at barrel strength (for those who have been hopelessly looking for this year’s Limited Edition Four Roses Single Barrel, this is a darn good – and available, for now – alternative, though it a different recipe than the national release).

We chatted a bit about the beauty of single barrel offerings – most importantly the fact that it’s been tasted by the store’s proprietor and chosen for its specific character, vs. the standard batched whiskeys that typically fill the shelves (or the standard single barrel offers from distilleries that weren’t selected especially by the store, so may be more of an unknown). When the price is similar for a “private selection” single barrel vs. the standard product, what’s to lose? Well, having the person who chose that barrel there in person to provide notes and thoughts on the whiskey is key, and figuring out if your personal tastes match up well with theirs is important as well. All the more reason to find a store you like (like this one) and make it your regular stop.

On my walk around the store, I couldn’t resist picking up a half bottle of Carpano Antico, another half bottle of Cocchi Vermouth di Torino, and an Italian aperitif called Casoni 1814 (similar to Campari or Aperol) that I haven’t tried before. There were many more tempting items, but I let Herb know that I’d be back another time for more. I’m expecting to get to know Decatur Package Store a lot better. Which makes me happy.

View a map and guide to Atlanta’s best liquor stores (including Decatur Package Store), cocktail bars, and more at the Thirsty Guide to Atlanta.

P.S. As for the Four Roses Single Barrel mentioned above, no tasting notes to share yet, but I really like what David Driscoll at K&L had to say about their similar single barrel selection:

“This barrel, aged 10 years and 6 months at the distillery, is from formula OESV, and it’s the most utilitarian whiskey we’ve yet selected from Four Roses. It’s not the richest, the spiciest, the most esoteric or the sweetest, but I believe it to be the most balanced and delicious. At 59% ABV, you’d expect it to be a monster, but it’s quite restrained, almost brooding in its profile. You expect it to explode at any moment. It never does; it remains in check and keeps its distance. The fruit is there, lush and soft, but it stays in the background. The richness is there, but it’s not obvious. The spice is robust, with hints of cherry and banana struggling to the fore, but still there’s some reluctant force holding it back. The result is dangerously drinkable Bourbon, one that takes three or four sips just to get a grasp of, and then it hits you. There’s no denying that it’s good, even great–but there will be fierce attempts to penetrate its core and understand what its all about. This Bourbon will not cave, however. It just wants to be drunk, not contemplated. It seeks to be enjoyed, not studied. It demands to be appreciated, but it will not beg for your attention. Who knew a Bourbon could be so anthropomorphic?”

November 25, 2013November 23, 2013

Four Roses Bourbon: Yellow Label, Small Batch, Single Barrel

Four Roses has risen from relative obscurity in the US a mere decade ago to become one of the most admired bourbon distilleries in the land, thanks in large part to longtime master distiller Jim Rutledge. The brand has a rich history, dating back to 1888. They were one of the most popular bourbons in the US post-Prohibition, but Seagram’s bought the brand in the 1940’s and soon shifted its focus to selling in Europe and Asia. You couldn’t even find Four Roses here in the States for over 40 years. Four Roses ownership changed hands again in 2002, and (thankfully) soon arrived back on US shelves.

While Four Roses may not have the broad name recognition of a Maker’s Mark or Jack Daniels, nor the raving mad fanaticism that Pappy Van Winkle earns, they have quietly won acclaim from those who know their bourbon. Four Roses has been named American Whisky Distiller of the year three years running now by Whisky Magazine, and they consistently earn all kinds of raves for their line of bourbon.

The three mainstay products from Four Roses are their base “Yellow Label,” the “Small Batch,” and a Single Barrel version. If you’re lucky, you might also find one of their limited edition small batch and single barrel releases, each of which comes out once a year. Whisky Advocate magazine just picked the Four Roses 2013 Limited Edition Small Batch ($85) as their highest rated bourbon for this year’s buying guide.

Here’s a handy guide to choosing among the three main Four Roses bottlings, from the obvious distinctions in proof and price, to a few tasting notes, to some highly debatable comparisons against other well known trios. Were you a Rodman fan when the Bulls were collecting rings? Go with the Single Barrel. Is Carreras your favorite of the Three Tenors? Go with the Yellow Label. Clerks over Mallrats? Small Batch. You’re welcome.

[table]Yellow Label,Small Batch,Single Barrel
less than $20,about $30,about $40
80 proof, 90 proof, 100 proof
10 recipes mingled,4 recipes mingled,1 single recipe (and barrel)
Floral,Spicy,Rich and Spicy
Pear,Vanilla Pepper,Dark Fruits and Nuts
Honey Corn Muffin,Spicy Cornbread,Cinnamon Nut Bread
Bit-O-Honey,Twix,Skor
Jose Carreras,Luciano Pavarotti,Placido Domingo
Larry,Curly,Moe
Harpo,Chico,Groucho
R2D2,Han Solo,Chewbacca
Martin Short,Steve Martin,Chevy Chase
Pippen,Jordan,Rodman
Hermione,Ron Weasley,Harry Potter
Farrah Fawcett,Kate Jackson,Jaclyn Smith
Wind,Earth,Fire
Stills,Crosby,Nash (and Young)
Ad-Rock,Mike D,MCA
Chasing Amy,Clerks,Mallrats
Excellent*,Excellent*,Excellent*
[/table]

Got your own comparison for these three? Let us know in the comments below.

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* Thirsty South Rating Scale:

Wow – among the very best: knock-your-socks-off, profound, complex liquid gold!
Excellent – exceptional in quality and character, worth seeking out, highly recommended
Good Stuff – solid expression of its type/varietal, enjoyable and recommended
Fair – fairly standard or exhibiting obvious though minor flaws
Avoid – move away folks, nothing to see here, a train wreck

Full Disclosure: Tasting samples provided by Four Roses.

November 4, 2013November 19, 2013

Woodford Reserve Straight Malt & Classic Malt Whiskey

Woodford Reserve just did something very interesting, on the verge of awesome. For this year’s Master’s Collection release, they introduced TWO malt whiskeys – one aged in charred new oak (as is typical of bourbon), one in used (as is typical of Scotch). That’s right, these are malt whiskeys, which is highly unusual in the US and basically unheard of in Kentucky. AND they offer the chance to experience the difference that used vs. new barrels have on that malt whiskey.

While I haven’t loved some of the previous Woodford Master’s Collection releases, this one definitely had me intrigued. Both of these are made from a 100% malted barley mash. Both are triple distilled in Woodford Reserve’s copper pot stills. Both are bottled at 90.4 proof. Both are aged around the same as regular Woodford Reserve, 6-8 years, though there’s no age statement on the bottles. In fact, per Woodford, the two “are only one week apart in age in the barrel.” It’s only the nature of the barrels used for aging that distinguishes the two.

As for the the labeling on these two – I find it confusing as heck. One is labeled as “classic malt” and the other as “straight malt” – do you have any idea what that means? I sure don’t. Do either of those names do anything to convey the difference in barrel aging? Nope. Do either of them lead you to believe that the whiskey in the two bottles actually started off the same before going into barrels? Nope.

Luckily, once you have both of these in front of you, a quick glance or a quick sniff tells you all you need to know about which one saw time in new oak vs. used. They are like night and day. And that’s the thing that just might hook whiskey enthusiasts out there into dropping a hundred bucks each for these two bottles. (Full disclosure: I was sent tasting samples from the distillery.) So, how are they? Let’s review these one by one, then I’ll do the obligatory compare and contrast.

Woodford Reserve Master’s Collection Classic Malt Whiskey
100% Malt Spirit Matured in Used Cooperage
90.4 Proof, Approx. $100 retail
Tasting dates: Oct 20 – Nov 3, 2013

The color here is your first glimpse into the fact that the barrels used are… used. They’ve already been tapped out for maximum interaction between the whiskey and the wood, so the impact on color and flavor will be less dramatic. This “Classic Malt” is a pale but clear and bright gold color, think Chardonnay.

On the nose, there’s a green character fairly prominently – you could say green wood, or green grain, but the thing that kept coming to mind for me was the smell of tomato vine. You definitely get the malt character on the nose as well, but it’s fairly subtle. Also subtle is the fruit – there’s a bit of something like candied lemon peel or lemon marmalade – but it’s not overtly citrusy or sweet.

Sipping neat, there’s a good deal of heat for 90 proof – but it’s a tingly, mouth-watering heat. I felt from the first sip that this could benefit from water or ice. Grain is indeed the prominent flavor, that green character from the nose fades away for the most part, but comes back in a very pucker-y finish. It definitely shouts Scotch rather than Bourbon. And… at this point… not great Scotch.

Adding a touch of water smooths things out considerably and brings out some fruit as well. A cube of ice does even better, making a pretty dramatic transformation, for me at least. The nose becomes more grain-centric, the green tomato vine dials back, and a crisp, buttery pear tart note comes out. On the palate, the ice does wonders. That pear tart profile comes through strong now, though it’s not at all sweet (so maybe a tart isn’t the right descriptor – think of a tart without any sugar added). The body and finish smooth out significantly as well. Really nice. The pear character here and overall grain profile reminds me of the St. George Single Malt whiskey out of California, which is a very good thing.

Woodford Reserve Master’s Collection Straight Malt Whiskey
Kentucky Straight Malt Whiskey, Matured in New Charred Oak Barrels
90.4 Proof, Approx. $100 retail
Tasting dates: Oct 20 – Nov 3, 2013

The color is typical of bourbon of some age – a bright, full amber. The nose, too, heads in bourbon direction – bold, with some baking spice and vanilla coming through, a bit of orange zest, but mostly I get something like brown sugar oatmeal – a toasty, grain-driven nose with just a bit of caramelization. The sweetness is minimal, though, compared to bourbon.

Sipping neat, this is fairly smooth stuff. All the way through the finish. Again, the malt grain is very present, but its bathed in orange rind, cinnamon, a bit of crisp pear fruit. I wouldn’t call it wood-y, but you definitely get the impact of that charred oak in the baking spice profile. A touch of water brings out the butterscotch, but interestingly… it also brings out the Scotch! That sounds like two different directions, and it is, but I really like how a bit of water manages to accent both the wood and the grain here.

With a cube of ice, I’m digging this even more. It takes on a fuller, chewier feel in the mouth. Orange, baking spice, pear come more to the front ahead of the grain. The finish is warm and steady, though veers a bit into a tart and tannic direction at the end.

Going back to comparing these two, which is the most interesting thing to me about this release – the impact of new, charred oak is very apparent. Even though these are both malt whiskeys, I think the new vs. used comparison also helps demonstrate one of the major general distinctions between bourbon vs. Scotch. You can really see how the new oak imparts color, aroma, sugar, flavor in a way that is dramatically different than what typical Scotch gets from its used barrels. For this “Classic Malt,” the used oak simply allows the grain to shine through to a greater extent.

I like both of these, though my personal caveat is that they need the ice or a bit of water to show well. If I had to pick one, I’d actually go with the “Classic Malt” – because the combination of malt and used barrels is simply more unique for a Kentucky/US whiskey, and I just love that pear tart character that comes through with some coaxing.

In a lineup of Scotch, would I call these stellar whiskeys? Probably not. But for their adventurous spirit, their uniqueness, and their education value as far as the impact of the barrel, I’ve gotta give them both an E for EXCELLENT.

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* Thirsty South Rating Scale:

Wow – among the very best: knock-your-socks-off, profound, complex liquid gold!
Excellent – exceptional in quality and character, worth seeking out, highly recommended
Good Stuff – solid expression of its type/varietal, enjoyable and recommended
Fair – fairly standard or exhibiting obvious though minor flaws
Avoid – move away folks, nothing to see here, a trainwreck