A Visit to Wadmalaw Island: Firefly Distillery

Wadmalaw Island sits a bit south of Charleston,  bordered by Bohicket Creek and the North Edisto River, dotted with live oak trees dripping in Spanish moss, home to America’s only tea plantation, as well as a little distillery called Firefly.

Firefly Distillery is not well marked. You’re highly unlikely to happen upon it, as it sits near the end of a long road on the way to nowhere, towards the end of Wadmalaw Island. The local authorities won’t even let Firefly put up signs to help alert some of the visitors to nearby Kiawah or Seabrook Island that a distillery is just down the road. That is often the nature of being a distillery in the South, a tug of war between being a blessing on AND a pariah to the local community at the same time. So, Firefly is a destination for seekers, those who love their sweet tea vodka, or who have heard of their delicious Sea Island rums, or, maybe, those who are simply seeking a fascinating peek into the mind of a mad scientist out in the islands of South Carolina’s low country.

Jim Irvin is the mad scientist behind Firefly. He started making muscadine wine out on Wadmalaw over a decade ago, but really found his calling when he partnered with Scott Newitt and came up with the idea of a Southern sweet tea vodka using tea from the nearby plantation – the only tea plantation in the United States. Jim is clearly a restless tinkerer – his liquor stills look like something out of a high school science project gone grand and the grounds of the distillery are dotted with experiments in the making, stevia plants and multiple hops varieties growing in the garden, barrels aging, antique machinery being tested. That experimentation is paying off in the form of some wonderful products that can be sampled at the Firefly tasting room – a bracingly tart lemonade vodka, a rich and warming coffee spiced rum, and, of course, their line of sweet tea vodkas.

Before we hit the tasting room, Jay MacMurphy, who runs the daily operations at the distillery, showed us around the grounds: the beautiful muscadine vines set amongst the oaks, the garden overflowing with stevia and hops and fruit, that science project of a still, the hand-labeling of bottles. Kids will love visiting with the animals – goats and pigs and chickens and rabbits eager for a visit.

As you head into the operations areas of the distillery, it’s clear that the actual production here in Wadmalaw is small: micro-distillery batches of up to 500 gallons at a time. The big volume stuff – the main line of sweet tea vodkas – is handled on dedicated equipment in Kentucky by the Sazerac Company. Wadmalaw takes care of the limited releases and the Sea Island rums, many of which you can only find at the distillery itself or in South Carolina. The barrel aging room is small and warm, the better to encourage the interaction of the wood and the spirits. The “lab” is a nook of equipment and test batches, notes scribbled all over the place. And those stills… they are a science lover’s take on the distillation process, no elegant copper domes in sight. It all shows that this is a place built on passion.

On to the tasting room, where $6 gets you a sampling of their products and your own Firefly shot glass. The highlight is the ability to try some things you’re not likely to find at home: the limited Sea Island sugar cane rums (which are planned to get distribution in Georgia in the near future), Firefly’s “handcrafted” vodka (no tea, just vodka), and their lemonade vodka which can only be bought at the distillery. These are all excellent products and you will likely find it hard to leave without a bottle or two (we took home a few bottles of spiced rum and Java rum).

As you happily leave the tasting rooms, the South Carolina sun soaks through the oaks and Spanish moss, and you realize again that Firefly sits in a special place. Firefly’s sweet tea vodka may be found all over the country now, but Wadmalaw Island is its home, and it’s a magical place to be, even if it’s just for an hour or two.

Enjoy…


The donkey-powered sugar cane press, chewing up sugar cane


The “science project gone grand”


The lab of the mad scientist


Barrels from Buffalo Trace for aging Sea Island rum


Sea Island Rum in the tasting room


The muscadine vines surrounded by oak and moss


Quack!

Read our tasting notes for the Sea Island Spice Rum and Java Rhum

Full Disclosure: Our tasting room visit at Firefly Distillery was complimentary.

Growlers Grow on Atlanta

Fresh filled growlers (64 oz. jugs, pictured above) are now firmly established in the Atlanta beer scene, with the area’s two preeminent beer shops – Ale Yeah! out east in Decatur and Hop City on the Westside – happily updating fans as they kick kegs practically daily and replace them with something new. We picked up growlers at each of these two fine shops last week and had a good Saturday night with some La Trappe witte (a stellar summer-friendly Trappist ale) and some Phillips Amber Ale (solid stuff, brewed to go well with seafood).

Growlers offer a fresh, economical and environmentally friendly way to pick up good beer, and are downright fun to share with friends. Here’s a quick look at the growler sections of Atlanta’s two retail beer stalwarts.

Hop City was Atlanta’s first entry into fresh filled growlers. Kraig and company have established a true beer destination for Atlanta’s beer lovers, and their sixteen tap growler section is no exception. Kraig explained their approach, “for our growler choices, we want to make sure we cover as many tastes as possible. You will always find at least one wheat beer, one dark (porter or stout), an IPA/Pale or three, a Belgian-style, a brown, a brown/amber, and alager/pilsner. During the summer months we will lean toward the lighter stuff. During the winter we will be more likely to break out the barleywine.” They also try to maintain a wide range of price options, from the almost always present Sweetwater IPA at $6.99 per fill, to super rare beers like de Struise Outblack which runs $49 for a growler fill, but they focus on beers under $20/fill. Watch out for rare beer releases each Thursday night, and special “tap takeovers” as well – Stone is next on their list with eight beers from the highly regarded brewer coming in to “Growler Town” at once.

Ale Yeah! in Decatur followed in the footsteps of Hop City, setting up shop across town in Decatur. They focus more exclusively on beer (no wine section), and their growler station is comprised of eight taps at the back of the store. Eddie at Ale Yeah! is highly knowledgable, and can point you in the right direction no matter what your tastes are. He explained that they seek a balance of styles in their growler lineup, saying, “our philosophy for growler fills is primarily to maintain a good cross-section of styles: IPA, wheat, funky/sour, lager/pils, stout, brown/red, etc…” In general, IPA’s and local beers such as Wild Heaven‘s Ode to Mercy have been very popular for them. Their most expensive growler thus far was Rodenbach Grand Cru, a fabulous Flanders red ale, at $30.99 for the fill. Ale Yeah! is constantly adding new and interesting beers to their growler lineup, and keeping Decatur beer lovers happy in the process.

Meanwhile, The Beer Growler, a shop that opened in Athens last year and paved the way for Hop City and Ale Yeah!, plans to open their own Atlanta area outpost next month in Avondale Estates. We’ll soon find out exactly what they have in store for Avondale, but expect a strong presence for Terrapin and Wild Heaven beers given the Athens and Avondale connections. Cheers to more growlers for everyone.

UPDATE: Just read about ANOTHER growler stop in the Atlanta area: “Beer growlers are now being filled in Roswell, Ga.!!! All Y’alls Wine & Gourmet Market is the first and only place north of ATL to fill and retail beer growlers. We currently have 5 awesome beers on draft anxiously waiting your consumption. For more details, call All Y’alls and ask for Kevin a.k.a. ” Beer Pimp” at 678-226-9464″

UPDATE 2: Now Whole Foods on Ponce in Atlanta is also selling a small selection of beers by the growler, yeehaw!

UPDATE 3: The Beer Growler opens in Avondale Estates on August 12. And Whole Foods Merchants Walk (Marietta) is also now selling growlers.

Cocktail Ingredients: Homemade Orgeat Syrup

Among cocktail ingredients, orgeat syrup is somewhat esoteric. There is one colossally classic drink that requires it – the Mai Tai – and several other unusual and not-often-seen cocktails that call it into service as well, including the Momisette, “the Japanese cocktail” and the Trinidad Sour. The main thing that orgeat brings to the table is a milky, nutty sweetness, often used to balance out strong bitter flavors. I was eager to make a Trinidad Sour at home, a drink known for its overwhelmingly heavy use of Angostura bitters as a primary ingredient, and sought out some orgeat. Commercial versions are available, most commonly one from Fee Brothers, but the ingredient list will turn off anyone opposed to the use of corn syrup and artificial flavors in their cocktails. Making orgeat at home is not that difficult, but does require a bit of time and procuring some orange blossom water, a minor but vital ingredient.

I followed the recipe found on Imbibe’s website. It will take a total of 6 hours or so, most of it spent soaking chopped-up almonds in water. And, other than the orange blossom water, the ingredients are simple – raw sliced almonds, water, a bit of vodka, and sugar. Once made, the orgeat syrup will last for several weeks, but I highly recommend making use of it in a variety of cocktails to get a feel for what orgeat can do. One thing to note is that the milky color and density of the syrup has a tendency to make cocktails look like absolute crap (see photo of Trinidad Sour below, one of the ugliest cocktails I’ve ever seen).

So, on with the cocktails. The Trinidad Sour is for the bold among you (seriously, this is heavy duty stuff), the Japanese Cocktail is for the distinguished (brandy is the predominant note), the Momisette is for those eager for refreshing invigoration (a sweet take on pastis), and the Mai Tai, well, for those who want to Tiki (party!). Here are the recipes:

The Trinidad Sour
1 oz Angostura bitters
1 oz orgeat syrup (I personally prefer to up this to 1 1/2 oz, but start with 1 oz)
¾ oz fresh lemon juice
½ oz rye, such as Rittenhouse Bottled in Bond

Shake well with ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

Japanese Cocktail
2 oz brandy
½ oz orgeat syrup
2 dashes Angostura bitters

Shake with ice, strain into a chilled glass and garnish with lemon peel.

Momisette
1½ oz Pernod or other pastis
½ oz orgeat syrup
Sparkling mineral water

Add pastis and orgeat to a tall glass, add ice, top off to taste with sparkling water.

Mai Tai
2 oz rum (the original called for 17-year old J. Wray & Nephew Rum)
½ oz orange curacao
½ oz orgeat syrup
3/4 oz fresh lime juice

Shake vigorously with ice and strain into an old fashioned glass filled with crushed ice. Garnish with a mint sprig.

Garden & Gun’s BBQ Sandwich Guide

Garden and Gun magazine can be a treasure trove of Southern foodways, drinking, and all-around Southern culture, though of the decidedly “not on the skids” type. The most recent issue featured a roundup of 21 spots to indulge in a BBQ sandwich. I wouldn’t call this the definitive guide to BBQ sandwiches by any means, but the fact that they included Payne’s in Memphis (pictured above) instantly established the credibility of this list in my mind, as I have never had a finer sandwich in my life than the one at Payne’s. Here in Atlanta, there’s no arguing with the selection of newcomer Heirloom Market, who is shaking things up with a bit of a Korean twist to traditional Southern BBQ.

So, in order to help everyone navigate the world of great BBQ sandwiches (just in time for any Fourth of July roadtrips), we put together this handy Google map of the spots featured in the article. Happy eating!


View Garden & Gun BBQ Sandwich Trail in a larger map

Featuring:
Twelve Bones Smokehouse
5 Riverside Drive
Asheville, NC 28801
(828) 253-4499
12bones.com

Alamo BBQ
2202 Jefferson Avenue
Richmond, VA 23223-7220
(804) 592-3138
alamobbqva.com

Bear’s Restaurant
128 West 21st Avenue
Covington, LA 70433-3150
(985) 892-2373

Bunn’s Barbecue
127 North King Street
Windsor, NC 27983-6864
(252) 794-2274

Bunyan’s Bar-B-Que
901 West College Street
Florence, AL 35630-5317
(256) 766-3522

Craig Bros Cafe
15 W Walnut
De Valls Bluff, AR 72041
(870) 998-2616

Heirloom Market BBQ
2243 Akers Mill Road Southeast
Atlanta, GA 30339-2604
(770) 612-2502
heirloommarketbbq.com

Hickory Pig Barbecue and Catering
3605 Thompson Bridge Road
Gainesville, GA 30506
(770) 503-5235
hickorypig.com

Jackie Hite’s, 467 W Church St
Batesburg-Leesville, SC 29006

Meshack Barbecue
240 East Avenue B
Garland, TX 75040-7274
(214) 227-4748

Mustang Creek Bar-B-Que
37320 US Highway 59
Louise, TX 77455
(979) 648-2600

Old Hickory Pit Bar-B-Q
338 Washington Avenue
Owensboro, KY 42301-5450
(270) 926-9000

Papa Kayjoe’s Bar-B-Que
119 West Ward Street
Centerville, TN 37033-1631
(931) 729-2131

Payne’s Bar-B-Que
1762 Lamar Avenue
Memphis, TN 38114-1737
(901) 272-1523

Petty’s Carry Out
103 Highway 12 W
Starkville, MS 39759-3761
(662) 324-2363

Porky’s Bayside
1400 Overseas Highway
Marathon, FL 33050
(305) 289-2065
porkysbaysidebbq.com

Railhead Smokehouse
2900 Montgomery Street
Fort Worth, TX 76107
(817) 738-9808
railheadonline.com

Bridges Barbecue Lodge
2000 E Dixion Blvd
Shelby, NC 28150
(704) 482-8567
bridgesbbq.com

Ridgewood Barbecue
900 Elizabethton Highway
Bluff City, TN 37618-4304
(423) 538-7543

Southern Soul Barbeque
2020 Demere Road
St. Simons, GA 31522
(912) 638-7685
southernsoulbbq.com

Wilber’s Barbecue
4172 Us Highway 70
Goldsboro, NC 27534-9242
(919) 778-5218
wilbersbarbecue.com

High West Breaks Out Barreled Manhattans

As noted a few weeks back, the “barrel aged cocktail” craze is in high gear in bars across the country. Here in Atlanta, we recently tried the barrel aged Negroni at Double Zero (delicious, if not quite as bracingly vibrant as its unaged counterpart). And, now, lucky shoppers can find a limited edition, barrel aged Manhattan on the shelves of fine spirits purveyors across the country. High West Distillery of Utah is known for pushing boundaries (note their unique blended rye, bourbon/rye blend, “silver oat whiskey,” and the fact that their proprietor, David Perkins – raised in Georgia by the way, was awarded the 2011 Malt Advocate Pioneer of the Year Award). It’s no surprise that they’ve been a trailblazer for barrel aged cocktails by the bottle, starting last year with a special 100-day-aged “U.S. Grant Centennial Celebration Barreled Manhattan” and progressing to the the version now on store shelves with the moniker “The 36th Vote Barreled Manhattan.” “The 36th Vote” commemorates Utah’s decisive vote in the repeal of Prohibition, and the notion of a Manhattan as the appropriate drink to celebrate Prohibition’s repeal is entirely appropriate given its place in the classic, pre-Prohibition cocktail pantheon.

High West was kind enough to provide two samples of their Manhattan – the barreled version which can be found on store shelves, and an “unaged” version for comparison sake. “The 36th Vote” is a mix of 2 parts High West 95% rye whiskey, 1 part sweet vermouth, and a couple dashes of Angostura bitters per serving, which then spends somewhere between 90 and 120 days of aging time in a 2 year old, American oak, rye whiskey barrel. Perkins admitted that the vermouth used was not necessarily their first choice (Carpano Antica Formula anyone?), but due to federal regulations, had to be one that they could source wholesale in bulk.

The result is a 37 percent alcohol (74 proof), high quality Manhattan in a bottle. To test out the difference of the barrel aging, we tasted these samples first without any ice (I typically like mine shaken with ice and strained into a chilled glass, but many folks prefer stirred). The impact of the barrel aging is not unexpected – it mellows and mingles the flavors to produce a rounder, fuller cocktail (even vs. a version like the one that High West provided that has been pre-mixed and sitting in a bottle, rather than freshly made). With the unaged version, the sharp notes of the vermouth and bitters jump out on the nose, then linger prominently on the finish. With the aged version, there is a softer, more integrated nose, where the rye and the vermouth seem to snuggle up together, rather than posture against each other. It simply comes across as more integrated, more lush, more happily-wed. There are no obvious notes of the wood itself; rather, it’s that little bit of breathing time that the wood barrel provides that brings the drink into a slightly greater harmony. And “The 36th Vote” is exactly that – a beautifully harmonious take on the Manhattan.

Is the barrel aged cocktail in a bottle going to be the next big thing? I don’t think so. It’s just too darn easy to make a great Manhattan at home, not to mention the fact that experimenting with various ryes and various vermouths is a great way to learn what you like best. But “The 36th Vote” is worth experiencing, worth seeking out, to get a taste of time in the barrel, and to experience a uniquely different form of wedded bliss.

High West Distillery, The 36th Vote Barreled Manhattan
74 proof
Approx. $45 retail for a 750ml bottle
Tasting Date: June 7, 2011
Good Stuff – a great way to experience the impact of barrel aging on a classic cocktail